As winter descends upon the cycling community with its chilly embrace, avid bicyclists gear up for cold-weather rides, often facing the challenge of maintaining comfort and control during temperature swings, wind and power output. One aspect that is often overlooked is the conduction of cold through essential contact points like handlebars, brake levers, pedals and cleats. In this feature, we delve into the cold-weather conduction rates of different materials, specifically focusing on carbon, aluminum, steel and titanium.
Why are my hands cold?
Many cyclists just focus on their gloves and clothing choices when riding in cold weather, but understanding the thermal properties of the materials in handlebars, brake levers, pedals and cleats becomes essential for maintaining comfort and control no matter how long your ride is. Everything you touch can suck away your body heat. This comparative analysis will help you make informed, educated decisions to make cold-weather riding more tolerable allowing you to ride longer and in colder temperatures.
Handlebars and Brake Levers: The Thermal Connection
Carbon Fiber:
Known for its lightweight and vibration-dampening properties, carbon fiber is a popular choice among cyclists. However, in cold temperatures, carbon can conduct more heat away from your hands compared to other materials. The low thermal conductivity of carbon means that it can feel colder to the touch, making it essential for cyclists to wear insulating gloves for added warmth.
- Thermal Conductivity: ~1–30 W/mK *
- Warmth Retention: 4 of 5 - Great!
- Price Point: High – Carbon handlebars and brake levers typically cost $200–$400 or more, depending on the brand and design.
- Analysis: Carbon has the lowest thermal conductivity of all the materials, making it the best at keeping hands warm for longer periods in cold weather. Carbon is a premium material, offering lightweight construction and low thermal conductivity. However, its high price might deter budget-conscious cyclists. Ideal for those prioritizing performance and willing to invest in top-tier gear.
Aluminum:
Aluminum handlebars and brake levers strike a balance between weight and conductivity. While they may not be as insulating as carbon, aluminum tends to retain heat better, providing a more comfortable grip in cold weather. Cyclists may find aluminum a suitable choice for winter rides, especially when paired with insulated gloves.
- Thermal Conductivity: ~200–250 W/mK *
- Warmth Retention: 1 of 5 - Not Good
- Price Point: Affordable to Moderate – Aluminum components range from $30–$150, making them accessible for most riders.
- Analysis: Aluminum has the highest thermal conductivity, making it the least effective at retaining warmth. It transfers cold quickly to the hands, requiring more insulation to maintain comfort. Aluminum provides a balance between cost and performance. It’s an excellent choice for cyclists who need reliable cold-weather performance without breaking the bank.If you have aluminum bars and/or levers see below for some Pro Tips to make the transfer of cold less.
Steel:
Known for its durability and resilience, steel has a higher thermal conductivity compared to carbon and aluminum. This means that steel handlebars and brake levers may feel colder in winter conditions. Cyclists opting for steel components might want to consider additional insulation through gloves or handlebar covers.
- Thermal Conductivity: ~10–80 W/mK *
- Warmth Retention: 2 of 5 - OK
- Price Point: Affordable – Steel handlebars and brake levers cost $20–$100.
- Analysis: Steel's moderate thermal conductivity means it retains some warmth, but it transfers cold faster than carbon or titanium. Its density can make it feel colder over time. Steel is the most budget-friendly option but comes with added weight and higher thermal conductivity. It’s ideal for those prioritizing durability over weight savings. See below for some Pro Tips to make the transfer of cold less.
Titanium:
Titanium has a low thermal conductivity, comparable to carbon fiber. This makes it less likely to conduct cold rapidly, offering a more comfortable grip than aluminum or steel. Its combination of light weight and lower heat conduction makes it a premium choice for cold-weather cycling, though it’s often paired with ergonomic grips for added comfort.
- Thermal Conductivity: ~7–22 W/mK *
- Warmth Retention: 4 of 5 - Great!
- Price Point: Very High – Titanium handlebars and brake levers are priced between $300–$600 or more.
- Analysis: Titanium has low thermal conductivity, slightly higher than carbon, but still provides excellent warmth retention with a premium feel. Titanium offers a premium blend of durability, lightweight design, and low thermal conductivity. Its cost, however, places it in the luxury category, appealing to enthusiasts seeking the ultimate performance.
Cleats: Pedaling Through the Cold
When it comes to cleats, the choice of material can influence the cold-weather cycling experience. Many cyclists use flat pedals when riding in the Winter.
Most cleats are made from Steel (SPD) or brass (Crank Brothers / Time). The thermal conductivity of brass is ~109–125 W/mK which will conduct cold a little faster than steel. Cyclists opting for cleats should prioritize well-insulated footwear, shoe covers and insulated socks to combat the effects of cold-weather conduction.
BIKEIOWA'S PRO-TIPS
Brake levers: Wrap your lever with a small piece of foam, neoprene, mole-skin or even some fabric to make a barrier between the lever and your hands. Ensure the barrier allows full use of the brakes. We like these simple rubber-sleeves from Amazon on our fat bike.
Shift Levers: Most shift levers are a fairly small touch-point. We wrap the aluminum levers with a couple layers of mole-skin. Our other bike's levers are plastic or carbon and don't transfer much cold.
Switch to carbon bars/levers: Carbon isn't just for the weight-weenies. We've learned that carbon bars and levers conduct the least amount of cold to your hands. If you ride/race any length of time in the Winter months, this upgrade is high on our list. We also appreciate the vibration dampening of carbon bars.
Double or triple wrap your bars: This is an easy way to add an insulating barrier between your bars and your hands. Winter riding with a single-wrapped aluminum bar will make your cold real fast. You can even use the cushy silicone on the bars before the initial wrap for more insulation.
Chunky Grips: There are many straight-bar chunky (thicker) grips on the market these days. Most are marketed for vibration dampening, but we like them because the thicker they are, the less cold will be transferred - e.g. more insulation. We find the softer the grips are, that there are more micro-air pockets in the grips that help insulate even more.
Don't Sweat: This is the most common downfall/mistake when riding in the cold. Riders will use too heavy of a glove that is not breathable. Then as you ride, your body builds up heat and you start to perspire.
- Sweat dampens the inside of the gloves, and wet fabric conducts heat away from the skin much faster than dry fabric.
- Your hands can feel colder once you stop generating body heat (e.g., during a rest stop or slower riding), leading to discomfort and even a risk of frostbite in extreme conditions.
- Over-insulating your hands forces your body to regulate temperature by sweating, which uses energy and can cause fatigue.
- Moisture inside the gloves can make them slippery, reducing your grip on handlebars, brake levers, and shifters.
- Prolonged exposure to dampness can lead to chafing, irritation, or even mild skin conditions like chilblains (painful inflammation caused by cold, damp conditions).
Pogies: Windbreakers for your hands, Pogies are designed to keep the cold temperatures, wind, and rain off your hands. Pogies also create a small air pocket which acts like a micro-climate and if regulated correctly, this can be the golden egg of riding in the cold. Many pogies are over-built for most riding styles and don't offer ways to regulate the temperature which leads to sweaty hands.
X-Large Gloves: Tight gloves restrict blood-flow to your fingers thus making them colder. Wearing larger gloves will allow more room around each finger and your hand creating an air pocket that will warm up as your body starts producing heat
- Choose Gloves with Proper Insulation: Opt for gloves designed for your activity level and weather conditions. Look for moisture-wicking linings and breathable materials.
- Layer Strategically: Use a thinner base layer glove under a weatherproof shell. This setup allows better temperature regulation.
- Ventilation Options: Some winter cycling gloves include venting features to release excess heat during high-effort riding.
- Carry Spares: Bring a second pair of gloves to switch out if your first pair becomes too damp.
- Monitor Sweat Levels: Take breaks to remove gloves briefly and let your hands dry naturally if needed.
Mittens: Mittens allow your fingers to remain next to each other. This with an air pocket can keep your hands warmer for longer. Mittens can be bulky with very little dexterity which can make it difficult to shift, brake or change your GPS unit's settings.
Hand warmers: Chemical hand warmers are cheap and work well. We've tested in gloves, in pogies, in boots in really cold and windy temps. We like them best in a light weight pogie and not right on our hands. This way we can still regulate temperature. Chemical hand warmers can break open and can cause heat blisters and burns, but this rarely happens.
Battery-Powered Gloves: This is a viable option for riders with poor circulation, raynaud's phenomenon, or when the rider is not building up body heat from pedaling (e-bike, casual ride, quick errand). These gloves have multiple heat-settings and last quite a long time. If too hot of a setting, a rider's hands can still perspire leading to cold hands.
X-Large Boots/Shoes: Same with X-Large gloves, the extra room allows for a little extra air that will act as insulation. Don't go so big where you have too much play inside the boot/shoe. If you don't have specific Winter boots, shoe covers can be used over cycling shoes depending on the weather and conditions. Some use a plastic bag as a barrier. This can work in a pinch for shorter rides, but it creates a non-breathable barrier and eventually your feet will start to sweat and you'll be even colder. Winter boots tend to have a much thicker rubber sole that acts as an insulation barrier over normal cycling shoes.
Boot/Shoe Insoles: Most cold weather footwear comes with an insulated insole. With a larger boot/shoe, you can add an additional layer under the insole. We've traced the insoles and used Reflectix as a radiant barrier and really like these soft Alpaca Wool Felt inserts under our fitted insole.
Clipless or Flat Pedals? We always ride clipless in the Winter. We like the power and control we get with the upstroke. We ride Crank Brothers egg beaters or the Candys.
Socks: The best cycling socks for cold winter rides should combine insulation, moisture management, and comfort to keep your feet warm and dry.
- Merino Wool: Offers excellent insulation, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties. Naturally resists odors.
- Synthetic Blends: Materials like nylon, polyester, and spandex are often combined with wool for durability, stretch, and moisture control.
- Silk Liners: Thin silk socks can be layered under thicker socks for added warmth without bulk.
- Thickness: Medium to thick socks provide better insulation. Avoid socks that are too bulky, as they can restrict blood flow in snug cycling shoes.
- Height: Taller socks (crew or over-calf length) offer additional coverage and protection against wind and cold.
- Compression: Compression socks can improve circulation and keep feet warmer by promoting blood flow.
- Weatherproofing: Some winter socks feature windproof or water-resistant panels for added protection in wet or snowy conditions.
- Carry Spares: Bring a second pair of socks to switch out if your first pair becomes wet or too damp.
BIKEIOWA'S Favorite Cold Riding Gear
Now you know all the options, what do the BIKEIOWA folks use on their fat bike for Winter rides and Ultra Races? We don't have the best circulation in our fingers and toes, so we run a little heavier gear than most. All this gear has been thoroughly tested by us and works for us and might not work for your use case.
- Handlebars - Carbon Jones bar. Worth every penny. We still have bikes with steel and aluminum bars and they always feel much colder and we'll generally wear a heavier glove when riding these bikes.
- Grips - Chunky Kraton grips from Jones Bikes and single to triple-wrapped bars on other bikes.
- Levers - We mostly ride in the Winter with Straight/Jones bars and like the simplicity of these Amazon lever sleeves.
- Pogies - Pogie Lites are always on our bikes 3 of the 4 seasons. This is 100% the best piece of gear that has made the most improvement in our rides and races. We've been able to ride with a much lighter glove with the ability to regulate temperature to eliminate sweating and a big plus is the ability to shift and brake over the top of the Pogie. Yes - we designed them in 2018 and we still use and recommend them daily. They've sold in all 50 states and 30+ countries. More history and features here.
- Gloves - Depends on the temperature and duration of the ride. North Face Etip Heavyweight Fleece Glove or the 45Nrth Nokken Glove. Sometimes we'll just wear some regular full-fingered cycling gloves for a high-output shorter ride.
- Boots - Lake 303s has been our go-to. They are now MXZ304s. We like their flexibility when walking and hike-a-biking in the snow. We just picked up a pair of the 45NTH Wolfgars a few weeks ago when they were on a big discount when they were discontinued. These will only be used for extreme cold Winter Ultras. We have not used them yet.
- Socks - Anything merino wool. Mostly a mid-weight sock and sometimes we add a silk liner for extra warmth and for blister protection if we expect lots of bike-a-bike sections.
- Headwear - We like headwear with bills. A bill keeps the sun off our face and lessens the wind in our eyes and can act as a mud/dirt guard when following others. 90% of the time we wear the Twin Six Standard Winter Cap or the wool 45NTH Greazy Cap. The Twin Six cap is lighter and works better for heat dissipation. The wool 45NTH cap works great too, but is often too hot if you are riding hard.
- Outerwear Pants - 45NTH Naightvind Pants are our go-to. They look to be discontinued. We like pants better than insulated tights. If it is really really cold, we'll add a Smart-wool merino base layer which is super-comfy and wears well on the bike. We also have some older minimally insulated Marmot ski pants we'll wear sometimes.
- Outerwear Jacket - We almost always layer up vs. one heavy jacket. Over our base layer, we'll wear a thicker un-insulated long-sleeve jersey with a long-sleeve un-insulated wind-breaker jacket and a windvest over the top if it's really cold. This set-up works well for most of our uses. If super-cold, we have insulated cycling jackets made by Athlos and Primal which work very well.
- PRO-TIP #1 - Don't underestimate sun sleeves in the winter. Many times arm warmers are too heavy/warm and a sun sleeve pulled up over your base layer adds a bit more warmth, and if you get warm, they are easily removable and stow away easily.
- PRO-TIP #2 - Wind Vests are an incredibly versatile piece of gear - especially the ones with a two-way zipper where you can un-zip a bit from the bottom to allow some airflow around the waist as the waist is an area that has the most overlap layer that can result in overheating.
- PRO-TIP #3 - Use your zippers to regulate your core temperature. If too hot, remove a layer. Don't overheat.
- Base Layers - Merino Wool for the win here. Usually a long-sleeve mid-weight. We like Icebreaker and Smart Wool brands.
We include links above so you can research each product, but please order from your
local bike shop when you can!
* What is thermal conductivity and how is it measured?